POWER
TOOLS
Contains
extracts courtesy of A.N.T.A publication’s and TAFE “Electrical trades –Offhand
grinding” & “Metal trades –Drilling”
CONTENTS
Safety With An Off-Hand Grinder
Job PT 3 Scriber And Centre Punch Re-Sharpening
Job PT 4 Grinding other material
Using Fixed Position Drilling
Machines
Job PT 7 Making a sheet metal
gasket
Power
tools can be classified in two groups, fixed position and portable.
Drilling
Machines
There are three types of fixed position drilling
machines:
• bench
• column
•
radial
Bench Drilling Machines
Bench
drilling machines, used for small work, are mounted on a bench or stand. The
table can be swivelled and raised or lowered to position the work.
The
speed of the drill is usually changed by moving the drive belt to a different
set of pulleys.
The biggest hole that can be drilled is normally 13
mm or ½”. These drill bits are held in a chuck. The speed of the machine should
be adjusted to suit the drill bit size. Bench
Drilling Machine
The
work can be held by clamping or bolting to the work table or in a vice which
is bolted to the table.
Work must never be held by hand when drilling.
Column
Drilling Machines
Like
the bench drill with a longer column. The base is secured to the floor to allow
larger pieces of work to be drilled.
Holes
up to 25 mm or 1” can be drilled as the machine spindle has provision for
tapered shank drills to be inserted.
Work
can be secured to either the work bench or the machine base.
Radial Arm Drilling Machines
This has a radial arm which swings about a vertical
column. The sliding drill head is mounted on the arm.
Radial drilling machine
Drilling
operations on several hole locations on the one workpiece can be rapidly carried out since positioning the
drill head takes less time than shifting the workpiece
for each hole operation.
They
are available with radial arms from 600 mm to 3600 mm long and have a wide
range of speeds and feeds.
Off-Hand
Grinding Machines
There are two types of off-hand grinding machines:
• bench
• pedestal
Bench
& pedestal grinders
They
use grinding wheels of up to 200 mm in diameter and about 25 mm thick. The
floor or pedestal grinder is similar, but larger and heavier. Wheels around 300
mm diameter and 50 mm thick are commonly used in floor models.
The
machines are usually double ended to allow the fitting of a roughing wheel at
one end and a finishing wheel at the other end. The grit of the roughing wheel
is larger than the grit of the finishing wheel, and the grade of the finishing
wheel is usually a little softer.
Because
the wheel must run at a surface speed of about 1700 m/min there is some danger
of the wheel bursting. It is important, therefore, that the wheel be enclosed
in a steel guard.
Wheels must not be operated without the guards in place.
At
the front of each wheel there is a tool or work rest which steadies the work
when grinding. The work rest must be carefully adjusted so that the space
between the work and the wheel is very small - between 1 and 1.5 mm.
The
machines are also fitted with a toughened glass or plastic eye shield to
protect the operator from flying particles.
Bench
grinders are used to grind small work and cutting tools.
The work is usually hand held.
Pedestal grinders
for larger work.
Portable
power tools are powered by electricity, pneumatics or hydraulics.
Drilling
Machines
Portable
drills vary in drill size capacity and purpose. When drilling larger sized
holes a handle is clamped to the machine near the chuck.
Some
machines are single speed only, some are two speed and others have variable
speeds.
Hammer
drills have an internal hammering action that when activated increases the
speed of drilling holes in concrete and brick.
Angle
head drilling machines allow holes to be drilled in confined spaces.
Grinding
Machines
Three
types of portable grinders are available:
• angle grinder
• die
grinder
• straight grinder.
They
are used to grind work where it is easier to take the grinder to the job rather
than the job to the grinder. Cut off wheels can be used on angle grinders to
cut bar, tube and plate.
Nibblers
Used
to cut sheet metal, nibblers have an up and down cutting action which removes a
small quarter moon or “c” shaped piece of material with each down stoke. They
do not normally distort the material being cut.
Shears
With
the same cutting action as a pair of scissors, shears cut neatly and quickly.
Shears can distort the material being cut.
Saws
Jig
saws and sabre, or all purpose, saws use a reciprocating action to move a
blade. The blade must be suitable for the material being cut. If it is not, the
blade should be changed.
Woodworking
circular saws can also have a metal cutting blade or disc.
Wrenches
Impact
wrenches are used to tighten or loosen nuts and bolts quickly. The tightening
torque can be adjusted.
Standard
drilling machines can also be used to tighten/loosen nuts and bolts but without
the advantage of the impact (hammering) action.
Screwdrivers
Specific purpose power screwdrivers or standard
drilling machines with screw driving bits are used to tighten and/or loosen all
types of screws. Impact screwdrivers are also available.
Chipping Hammers
Chipping
hammers and scalers give a straight hammering action without rotary motion.
They are used to descale weld slag and clean castings
and masonry surfaces.
Work Holding
When the work piece is small and light enough to be moved
it also means the cutting action will most likely move the job. This is
dangerous. In these cases the job should be either:
• held in
a vice
• clamped
to a bench
• clamped
to a large object
• secured
so it can’t move.
In
each of the securing situations the operator must make sure the cutting action
does not damage anything.
• always inspect tools for damage before and after use
• tag damaged tools and report or repair them before they are
used
• store tools and their leads in a way that prevents damage
• follow
manufacturer or workplace procedures for the handling of portable power tools.
Air
has no lubrication properties and so oil can be added to compressed air to
reduce wear in tools. This is done using a lubricator.
Air also contain foreign particles and moisture which can damage tools. The amount of
these in compressed air can be reduced with filters.
Not
all tools in a pneumatic system need to run at maximum system pressure.
Pressure to a tool is reduced with a regulator.
When
a system has a lubricator, filter and regulator is known as an air service
unit.
Some
air tools are made with a self lubricating material like Teflon in the bearing
surfaces and so don’t need a lubricant in the air supply.
There
are also some air tools that have provision for
lubrication by an oil can. These also don’t need a lubricant in the air supply.
Air service unit
• Wear
safety glasses, safety boots, protection for your hair
and avoid loose clothing.
• Horseplay
in the workshop is likely to lead to accidents.
• Protect
your hearing with ear plugs or muffs over them in a noisy workshop.
• Lift
heavy weights in the right way.
Special
Rules For
Portable
power tools are dangerous if not used safely.
• Use
guards where fitted.
• Ensure
the cutting tool is the right one for the job and the power tool.
• Maintain
the safe working speed for the cutting tool.
• Hold
rotating spindles and wheels well away from your body and clothing.
• Remember
the torque of the power tools, which can cause injury if a jam occurs. You
could have your wrist twisted or be thrown off balance and fall.
• Your
own personnel protective equipment should include:
• protective
goggles
• gloves
• ear protection
• helmet
(optional)
More Safety
Rules For This Section
• Safely
manage the power supply leads lines. Check the condition of electrical cables. Don’t
use electrical cables while they are rolled up. Don’t leave cables lying on the
floor.
• Make
sure an earth-leakage protection-device is fitted to the power supply. Electrical
tools that are not double-insulated should have their resistance tested
regularly and after repairs.
• Disconnect
leads before making adjustments to the power tool.
• Switch
off power before removing cable.
• Do not
use electrical tools in wet conditions.
• Be
careful when you are using compressed air.
• Make
sure the workpiece is clamped rigidly so it cannot
move under the cutting forces.
• Check
the condition of all tools and power (electric, pneumatic and hydraulic) leads.
• Do not
use any faulty equipment, report it to the appropriate person.
• Wipe/clean
up any fluid spills from hydraulic equipment.
Use
safety glasses/goggles, a face shield and the eye shield fitted to the machine because
eyes must be protected from flying particles.
The
wheel must be in good condition and not used if there is any reason to believe
that it is cracked or has received severe shock. If so, the wheel must be
removed and tested by a person competent and authorised to do so.
A
badly worn wheel, grooved and uneven on the face and sides must be dressed as
it will cause the machine to vibrate or shudder; the work may catch between the
work rest and the wheel. The work rest must be correctly adjusted to a
clearance of 1 to 1.5 mm.
Support
the job on the work rest whenever possible.
Use the full face of the wheel by moving the job back
and forth across the face. This:
• results in even wear of the wheel rather than creating
grooves etc.
• helps keep the job cooler
• grinds quicker.
Drills
are sharpened by holding against the grinding wheel at the point angle on one
side of the drill (to grind one lip). As the grinding occurs the drill is
twisted clockwise and the tang is moved downwards to the right so forming the
lip clearance angle.
The thumb and fore-finger of the left hand are used
as pivot and the back of the drill is held with thumb and fore finger and
rotated in clockwise direction, advancing it into the wheel.
By
setting the hands on the tool rest of the grinding machine and by carefully
controlling the movement of the fingers the action of the attachment can be
copied.
Whether
the drill is sharpened by hand or by attachment it is important to check that
the height and length of each lip is the same and particularly when hand
grinding, that the axis of the drill bisects the point angle.
The
sharpening of a twist drill requires that the following items be considered:
Lip
Clearance Angle
Lip
clearance angle enables the cutting edges to penetrate the work and cut without
rubbing. For average conditions an angle of 12° to 15° is satisfactory.
Point
Angle
The
standard point angle is 118° general purposes. Where repetition drilling in
specific materials is to be carried out an angle suited to the material should
be used.
Whilst
an error in the size of the point angle would not seriously affect the
efficiency of the drill, it is most important that the axis of the drill bisect
the point angle.
Faults Due To Incorrect Drill
Sharpening
• Lip
lengths unequal, lip heights unequal, drill pint on centre.
Result - oversize holes, uneven swarf from each flute, reduced cutting
efficiency.
• Unequal
angles (chisel edge off centre) lip heights equal.
Result - oversize hole, uneven swarf from
each flute.
• Unequal
angles, lip heights unequal.
Result - hole oversize, stepped diameters,
uneven swarf from the flutes.
• Lip clearance
insufficient.
Result - the drill will rub on the heel
• Lip clearance
excessive.
Result - this will weaken the cutting edge.
The
use of a gauge will ensure uniformity of angles and cutting edges.
This
gauge has a small cup which serves to support the end of a straight shank drill
and a 60° point which fits into the centre hole of a taper shank drill.
Task
To sharpen an 8 mm HSS twist drill to tolerances
specified:
• point
angle ± 1°
• equal lip length + 0.25 mm
• lip clearance angle + 2°.
Procedure
Drill
re-sharpening will be demonstrated by your teacher. Under no circumstances
should you attempt this exercise unless you have seen and understood the
demonstration.
Sharpening
1 Stand in
a comfortable position in front of the machine and slightly to the left of the
wheel.
2 Hold the
drill between the thumb and index finger of one hand a distance from the point
which will allow the drill to pivot correctly on the index finger (see side
view).
3 Support
the hand on the tool rest with the remaining fingers.
4 Hold the
shank of the drill between the thumb and fingers of the other hand.
5 With the
drill held level, twist it until one of the cutting edges is horizontal and the
centre line of the drill is at approximately 60° to the wheel face.
6 Swing the
shank downwards, causing the point to rise, while at the same time rolling the
drill clockwise and moving it forward slightly to produce lip clearance.
Note: If considered
necessary, these three co-ordinated movements can be practised against a
stationary wheel using a correctly sharpened drill.
7 Check the
lip angle then repeat the procedure just outlined to grind the other cutting
edge.
8 Check
periodically to ensure correct point angle and equal lip length using the
gauge.
9 Submit the drill to your
teacher for checking.
Note: One way of
testing the re-sharpening is to drill a hole in a piece of scrap metal.
Two evenly shaped chips
Safety
• Always
wear eye protection
• Use
only the face of the wheel
• Do not
overheat the drill by using excessive pressure
• Do
not cool overheated HSS drills in water
Re-Sharpening
Chisels
Cold
chisels are forged from tool steel. Only the point of the chisel is hardened
and tempered, the body is left soft. If the head of the chisel were hard hammer
blows would cause it to chip.
The
point of the chisel is formed into a cutting edge. This cutting edge is similar
in nature to other cutting edges in that it requires the edge to be sharp.
Chisel cutting angles
The
size of the cutting angle should be about 70° for soft steel; when chipping
harder metals the angle should be a little larger and for softer metals it can
be ground smaller.
Grinding
the angle off-centre allows the chisel to be held at a convenient angle. if the angle “A” is too large the chisel will dig in; if it
is too small the chisel point will rise out of the cut.
Chisel cutting angle off centre
The
blows of the hammer will cause the head of the chisel to burr over and form
what is called a “mushroomed” head. The burr should be ground off as it appears
because of the likelihood of it cutting the hand.
Be
careful not to raise the temperatures too much when sharpening the chisel
otherwise the hardness of the cutting edge will be spoilt.
Task
To re-sharpen a flat chisel.
• cutting
angle ± 2°
•
equal fact length ± 0.5 mm.
Procedure
Chisel
re-sharpening will be demonstrated by your teacher. Under no circumstances
should you attempt this exercise unless you have seen and understood the
demonstration.
Sharpening
1 Stand in
a comfortable position in front of the grinder and slightly to the left of the
wheel.
2 Position
the chisel against the tool rest so the correct angle will be ground when the
facet contacts the wheel. The chisel must be pointing up as shown.
Flat chisel
3 Move the
chisel sideways back and forth across the wheel without applying too much
pressure. Do not allow the chisel to get too hot, cool it by dipping it in
water.
4 Alternate
the grinding of each facet to keep the fact lengths about the same.
5 Check the
cutting angle then repeat the procedure until the chisel is O.K.
6 Check
periodically to ensure correct point angle and equal facet length.
7 Submit the
chisel to your teacher for checking.
Re-Sharpening Scribers And Centre Punches
When sharpening a scriber point or centre punch, two
things must be considered:
• The
grinding of a definite surface at the required angle which must extend back
from the point.
• Avoiding
damage to the tool by heat.
The
ability to grind a definite surface on the tool point is the result of
practice. You must learn how to hold the tool in your fingers, which will be
supported on the tool rest, and how to press the tool against the wheel in such
a way that a clean smooth surface will be ground at the required angle. You
must learn how to remove the tool from the wheel, examine it and return it to
the wheel to grind a little more off the same face at the same angle as before,
or, if necessary, change the angle a little one way or the other.
You
must have a clear picture in your mind of the shape you are trying to produce
on the tool point.
Tool steels are sensitive to heat, that is they must
not be taken above 250°C. A tool can easily be taken above this temperature by
a grinding wheel if you are careless. The tool will not be overheated:
• if the grinding wheel is properly dressed,
• if the tool is pressed lightly against the wheel,
• if the tool is frequently dipped into water, and
• if your are attentive to your work.
Suggested
Duration
½
hour
Task
To practise the skill of re-sharpening a centre punch
and scriber on an off-hand grinder.
Safety
Wear
your glasses.
Procedure
1 Tool
re-sharpening will be demonstrated by your teacher. Under no circumstances
should you attempt this exercise unless you have seen and understood the
demonstration.
2 Position
the punch against the tool rest so the correct angle will be ground on the
point. The punch/scriber must be pointing up as shown.
Centre punch
Scriber
3 Rotate the
punch moving it sideways across the face of the wheel. Do not allow the punch
to get too hot, cool it in water.
4 Check the
point angle and repeat the procedure until the punch is sharpened.
5 Repeat
the procedure with the scriber taking extra care to avoid overheating of the
small diameter point.
Grinding Different Materials
Softer
materials such as plastics, aluminium and brass tend to grind away very
quickly. Because of its soft nature, the ground material tends to stick into
the holes in the grinding wheel clogging it up and making it hard to grind.
Whenever these materials are ground the wheel should be dressed (cleaned) by a
qualified person before trying to grind other materials.
Steel
with a softness/hardness between hardened steel and the softer materials reacts
differently again. Cast iron also reacts differently to the others when being
ground.
Most abrasive wheels are
constructed from either aluminium oxide or silicon carbide particles. The
silicon carbide are the harder and suitable for
grinding stone and ceramic. The particles are bonded together to make the
abrasive wheels in three different ways:
Vitrified bond- most common, strong, resistant
to water and acids
Silicate bond- has a milder cutting action
Organic bond-
the rubber, shellac or resinoid bond makes a tough high speed wheel
suitable for portable grinders.
The hardness of the
particles and the type of bond is less important than the amount of bond that
holds them together. High quantities of bond produce a hard wheel that wears
down slowly and low quantities of bond produce a soft wheel that wears down
slowly. To abrade a hard material you need the wheel to give up its abrasive
particles easily, consequently the general rule is that you:
Use soft bond wheels on hard material and hard bond
wheels on soft material.
Letters indicate the type of material or process used for the bond of
the wheel:
• V for vitrified
• S for silicate
• B for resinoid
• R for rubber
• E for shellac
There may be a particular variation in the bonding for special applications.
This is shown by letters or symbols after the basic bond type.
An abrasive wheel suitable for the rough dressing of a steel casting
would be marked:
38A. 16. P. 5 VBE. |
|
38 A‑ aluminium oxide
abrasive |
(abrasive code & type) |
16‑ coarse grain size
|
(grain size) |
P‑ medium to hard grade
of bond |
(bond grade) |
5‑ medium to dense structure
|
(structures 1-12, the higher
the more open) |
V‑ vitrified bond
|
(bond type) |
BE‑manufacturer's particular
bond character |
(special code) |
Suggested
Duration
½
hour
Task
To grind a 2 x 45° chamfer on 50 mm pieces of steel
and cast iron.
• ± 0.5
mm
• ±
5°
Safety
• Wear
your glasses
• Check
and if needed adjust the gap between the work rest and wheel.
Procedure
Grinding
chamfers on steel and cast iron will be demonstrated by your teacher. Under no
circumstances should you attempt this exercise unless you have seen and
understood the demonstration.
Grinding
1 Stand in
a comfortable position in front of the machine and slightly to the left of the
wheel.
2 Rest the
50 mm long piece of steel on the work rest and tilt it to approximately 45°.
3 Move the
steel back and forth across the wheel until approximately a 2 mm x 45° chamfer
has been ground on the corner. Generally, steel only needs to be cooled in
water when it gets too hot to hold.
4 Check the
angle, size and uniformity of the chamfer and repeat the procedure until the
chamfer is within tolerances.
5 Repeat
the procedure with the cast iron.
An effective job plan:
• ensures
the job meets required standards
• lists
all operations/steps in a logical sequence
• list equipment and tools needed.
The planning involves:
• gathering
all relevant information e.g. drawings and specifications
• determining
all the operations to be done
• deciding
on the sequence of the operations
• detailing the tools required for each
operation.
Sample Plan
Steps |
Tooling |
1 Check the material for defects, overall
dimensions and material |
Rule |
2 Coat the job with a suitable marking
medium |
Marking medium |
3 Mark the job to the details shown on
the drawing |
Rule, square, scriber,
angle plate, scribing block, clamp, centre punch, hammer, dividers |
4 Check marking out conforms to drawing
details |
Rule, square |
5 Grind 45° chamfer all round |
Off-hand grinder |
6 Clamp the job in a vice.
The job should be raised on a piece of timber packing or a pair of parallel
strips to prevent damage to the vice |
Vice, packing |
7 Line up the centre of the
drill with the centre of each hole and clamp the vice in place |
Clamp/bolts |
8 Drill two holes at approximately
450 revs/min using cutting fluid as needed |
Bench drill, 10 mm drill
bit, cutting fluid |
9 Remove all burrs and sharp edges |
200 mm flat smooth file,
hole deburring tool |
10 Check that finished article conforms
to drawing details |
Rule, square |
Before putting a drill in a drilling machine the
drill should be checked for the following defects:
• condition of shank
• the size of the drill body
• the condition of the drill point and lands.
Drill
Speed
Set
the drilling machine to the appropriate speed.
Alignment
Of The Drill
To
ensure that the drill produces the hole in the correct position it must first
be lined up with the centre punch mark, or the existing hole. The drill must be
brought into contact with the previously punched/drilled hole while not
revolving. Then line up the drill by eye so that the cutting edges touch on
both sides. The drill is then turned 90° and checked, as before. The job should
then be clamped before drilling.
Drawing
Drills Back On Centre
Carefull
setting up and use of sharp drills will minimise the tendency for a drill to
wander. However, irregularities sometimes cause the hole to start off centre.
If
so, the fault can be corrected by chipping a groove with a round nose chisel on
the side towards which the drill has to move. The cutting force can now push
the drill over into the groove and back onto centre. It may be necessary to
repeat this procedure.
This
correction procedure should be started when the drill has entered about half
way down the point. It must be finished before the body of the drill enters the
workpiece,
because once the drill is cutting to its full diameter it’s not possible to
make any further corrections.
Drilling Machine
• tighten
drive belts as required
• remove
any table burrs
• clean machine after use.
Vice
• lightly lubricate screw and slides as required
• inspect
for, and remove, burrs
• protect
vice by using packing under jobs
• clean
vice after use
• damaged vices should be reported to the appropriate person
• tag badly damaged vices.
Drill Bits
• sharpen
as required
• store to prevent damage to the cutting edges
• destroy
drill bits that can’t be repaired.
Safety Reminders
• in the workshop always wear safety glasses, safety boots,
hair protection and suitable clothing
• do not
use a machine with a danger tag fitted to it
• know
where the first aid station is located
• don’t
skylark in the workshop.
Suggested
Duration
½
hour
Task
To
mark out and drill 2 x Æ10
mm holes in a piece of steel.
Procedure
Marking
out and drilling holes will be demonstrated by your teacher. Under no
circumstances should you attempt this exercise unless you have seen and
understood the demonstration.
Marking
out
1 Coat the
material with a suitable marking medium and allow to dry.
2 Clamp the
material to angle plate.
3 Use a
scribing block and rule to mark the appropriate centre line(s).
4 Rotate
the angle plate 90° and mark the remaining centre line(s).
5 Remove
the material from the angle plate and lightly punch the centre of the circles.
6 Use
dividers to scribe the circle diameters.
7 Lightly
punch the four intersections of the circle diameter and the centre lines.
8 Check
that your marking out conforms to the drawing.
9 Ask your
teacher to check your marking out.
Hole
drilling
10 Clean the
vice and drill table.
11 Clamp the
job, raised on timber packing or parallel strips, in the vice.
12 Put the
correct sized drill bit securely into the machine.
13 Align the
centre of the drill bit with the centre of one of the marked holes and
clamp/bolt the vice in place.
14 Drill the
first hole following the procedure shown in the demonstration at approximately 600 revs/min.
15 Repeat
steps 13 and 14 for the second hole.
16 Remove the
Job from the vice and deburr the holes.
17 Check that
the job conforms to the drawing.
18 Clean the
machine and vice.
19 Ask your
teacher to check your job.
Suggested
Duration
½
hour
Task
To
mark out and drill 2 x Æ10
mm holes in a piece of cast iron.
Procedure
Marking
out and drilling holes will be demonstrated by your teacher. Under no
circumstances should you attempt this exercise unless you have seen and
understood the demonstration.
Marking
out
1 Coat the
material with a suitable marking medium and allow to dry.
2 Clamp the
material to angle plate.
3 Use a
scribing block and rule to mark the appropriate centre line(s).
4 Rotate
the angle plate 90° and mark the remaining centre line(s).
5 Remove
the material from the angle plate and lightly punch the centre of the circles.
6 Use
dividers to scribe the circle diameters.
7 Lightly
punch the four intersections of the circle diameter and the centre lines.
8 Check
that your marking out conforms to the drawing.
9 Ask your
teacher to check your marking out.
Hole
drilling
10 Clean the
vice and drill table.
11 Clamp the
job, raised on timber packing or parallel strips, in the vice.
12 Put the
drill bit securely into the machine.
13 Align the
centre of the drill bit with the centre of one of the marked holes and
clamp/bolt the vice in place.
14 Drill the
first hole following the procedure shown in the demonstration at approximately 400 revs/min.
15 Repeat
steps 13 and 14 for the second hole.
16 Remove the
job from the vice and deburr the holes.
17 Check that
the job conforms to the drawing.
18 Clean the
machine and vice.
19 Ask your
teacher to check your job.
• Use the
right size and type of tool for the job. If a light duty or small tool is used
on a large heavy duty job the tool will be damaged.
Safety
• Keep
the work area clean and tidy.
• Wear
the required clothing and safety equipment.
• Avoid
dangerous situations and ensure good ventilation when working in confined
places. Do not use compressed air to clean your self, your clothing or any
other person.
• Inspect
tools, leads and accessories before, during and after use. Make sure the tool
is turned off before connecting the power supply. Do not carry the tool by it’s power leads. Ensure cut off material does not fall onto
power leads.
• Do not
use damaged equipment. It should be reported, repaired immediately by a
qualified person or tagged not to be used.
• Use the
tool in the correct way. Do not push the machines cutter into the job to stop
it after switching it off. Do not put a power tool down until it has stopped
completely.
• Secure
the work material.
Storing Power Tools
• Store
portable power tools so they will not be damaged.
• Power
leads should no be bent at sharp angles during storage.
• Cover
places where dirt and dust might get in during storage.
Suggested
Duration
2
hours
Task
Use
portable power tools to make a sheet metal gasket.
Procedure
1 Produce a
detailed job plan for making the sheet metal gasket.
2 Submit
your job plan to your teacher for approval. DO NOT start the job until your
plan has been approved.
3 Using a
portable drill, jigsaw, shears and nibbler will be demonstrated by your
teacher. Under no circumstances should you attempt to produce the gasket until
you have seen and understood the demonstration.
4 Following your job plan
mark out and make the sheet metal gasket.
5 Check
that your gasket conforms to the drawing and safety requirements.